Lokakuun 2025 sommelier on Dalibor Marko
What’s your name and where do you work?
My name is Dalibor Marko, though everyone calls me Marko. Especially here in Finland, that’s the name that seems to stick among my circle of friends 🙂
I’m currently working full-time in Helsinki at Momentine and Momentine Wine Bar, where I’m also a co-founder.
We focus on wines from parts of Europe that are somehow lesser known or seem to be underrated, but we can clearly prove the significant improvement that’s going in the regions or countries either Hungary, Slovenia, Moravia – Czech Republic, Slovakia or Austria. All of them are part of Europe that is kind of hidden and that’s why we call them “The Other Europe”
How did you first become interested in wine, and how did that interest evolve into a career?
The interest in wine grew during my teenage years. I do remember very well, when grandfather was passing by from a winery located in the Tokaj region, Grandfather was always bringing dry Furmint, Lipovina, or Blaufrankisch and of course Tokaj wine as well. Officially, he brought those wines for my parents, even though he knew they were not very into wines in general. Mother enjoys it from time to time and back then I never saw my father with Czech roots drinking wine, but beer on the other hand, was a completely different story!
Meanwhile the closet was full of wines so I was allowed to share the open wine bottle with grandfather and more and more we were talking about the grapes and vinification then more and more I got interested in it. I do remember writing down complex notes in front of him, while he was explaining, knowing all the steps making Tokaj wines and to understand what really brings added value for the wine growers.
At that time, grandfather was working in a winery and arranging economic prosperity for agricultural companies. I had a chance during my free time to join his business trips so we had a chance to visit other winemakers in sertaine wine regions. Or receiving ceremonies from vintages. That is the reason why I have had the portfolio tasting in my early age with Zsolt Suto from winery Strekov 1075, I do still remember well it was springtime while I was crossing the the doors and walking through the large high stairs to Zsolt’s house and tasting the wines until late evening.
Of course while I was 16th years old I was still forming ideas, what to even expect and how the wines should approximately showcase, from the Zsolt Suto tasting I do remember clearly the earthly Gruner Veltliner even though the wines back then were somewhat different from what we know them as today.
To be honest I never imagined or kept in mind that wine would evolve into a career. Of course, I had spent time with small winegrowers, and I always enjoyed helping with harvests. Still, those experiences felt more like a passion than a profession. My full-time career was firmly rooted in the corporate world, and that was where I saw my professional path at the time.
The turning point that changed my profession was when my fiancée moved back to Helsinki… Around the same time, I had read in an economy magazine that wine to be value-adding good with export potential. Pages had many graphs and described wine regions that I already knew well, and a business idea started cooking in my mind. The legislative landscape of alcoholic beverages in Finland is far from simple, but it was exactly that challenge, which made the opportunity so compelling.
Which wine on your wine list would you recommend at the moment? Why?
Well, every selected wine from the list brings a different perspective and plays an important role, the purpose of the selection is to express the traditional grape varieties that bring the identity of Central and Central-Eastern Europe. Among them. Overall, if the recommendation is taken.
One wine especially close to my heart is the 2023 Furmint from Bott-Frigyes, shows vibrant citrus and flinty minerality, lifted by subtle white florals. Crisp acidity drives a lively, refreshing finish, while its balance of freshness and complexity delivers an elegant, well-structured wine with a lot of potential.
Something unforgettable would be Grüner Veltliner Labyrinth II. 2022 from Naboso winery is a wonderful expression of Andrej Mikulsičák’s style. Each sip of his wines strikes me with their clarity and elegance, like holding fresh stream water in your hands.
The Labyrinth range includes a new line of single-varietal white wines without skin fermentation. Wine has brilliant golden-yellow in color, this Gruner Veltliner opens with elegant fruit-mineral aromas of ripe white and yellow fruit, delicate spice, and hints of herbs. On the palate, its creamy texture and medium-full body feel more powerful than the alcohol suggests, balanced by refreshing acidity that ensures great aging potential. It’s a truly premium wine!
Tell us a memorable customer experience from your career!
Most of our guests at Momentine Wine Bar are open-minded, curious, and just want to enjoy wine in peace. The vibe is usually calm… except for one unforgettable visit from an American guy. He stormed in through the door shouting, ‘Is anyone from the United States here?!’ From across the room, a Dutchman calmly replied, ‘No Americans here at all.’ A moment later, a Norwegian added in his thick accent, ‘No Americans here either!’
The American then turned to me and asked, very seriously, if there had been any Americans earlier that day. I said, ‘No, but quite a few this week, yes.’ Without missing a beat, he ordered a Pinot Noir, pronounced with the most dramatic French accent and for some mysterious reason started speaking French with the Dutch couple, instantly becoming their new best friend. Only in a wine bar can this kind of comedy unfold.
Who is the winemaker you would like to meet personally and why?
I’m more than sure that is a question of time, but I’d really like to meet Michael and Maria Gross from Stajerska Slovenia, lately we had several talks, but somehow we have not been lucky to meet personally yet, Their philosophy, wines, vineyards, and their Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Furmint are impressive. The wines are clean and terroir-driven, and often show a Burgundian elegance interpreted through the soil.
They use many cru locations such as Gorca, Colles, Korže, Iglič in Haloze and Plač in Maribor. The vineyards are organic and the cellars work without additives or manipulation. I could say that Michael and Maria Gross are still quite a young couple, but it’s inspiring to watch their progress and growing reputation that rise a lot!
It’s really hard to believe that this beautiful part of heaven is just a few kilometres from Slovenian highway so in case you are on holiday by car passing Slovenia you need to check this place! 🙂
What are your favourite food and wine pairings for this autumn? Why?
Well here we have the autumn season, the first meal that is automatically connected with autumn is definitely Crispy Roasted Duck with Sauce and Fruit Jelly paired with Blaufränkisch works perfectly. Alternatively Kadarka, Zweigelt or Dunaj fit surely.
This time when local farmers prepare ducks in their premises it’s simply traditional, a cultural event that spiritually runs in the blood in each year!
Perhaps you don’t often hear of wine pairing with soup, but on the other hand it could be really exciting, so I’d go for a soup called Kulajda. This soup often has wild mushrooms picked from forest, potatoes, a lot of fresh dills, typically poached eggs, slightly sour taste from vinegar and sour cream in the end.
I think I first ate Kulajda as a little boy in some local pub with my father stopping by for lunch. The taste stayed with me for a long time, but unfortunately I was never able to recreate that intense experience. That first tasting can only be felt once.
Kulajda has creaminest tip of soup so I’d pair it with Chardonnay that will enhance the creaminess and let the soup itself stand out.
Roasted trout is easy to prepare, yet refined enough for a dinner with guests. Even though I’m not doing fishing by myself, I was mostly visiting small fish farmers where the fish is allowed to be roasted.
Rub a roasting dish with olive oil and place the trout inside. Salt them on the skin and inside the belly cavity. Stuff with slices of lemon and herbs. Sprinkle with cumin, season with pepper, and place small cubes of butter on top. Add crushed garlic cloves to the dish as well.
Place the uncovered dish in the preheated oven and roast the trout for 10–15 minutes, depending on their size. Remove and serve immediately on a heated plate with lemon wedges and Maldon salt. The skin can be eaten, or you can scrape it off with a fork to reveal the juicy meat.
Enjoy the trout best with plain boiled potatoes with butter and chives.
Personally I would pair trout with dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or light Pinot Noir.
What is your favourite cocktail and why?
To be honest, cocktails aren’t really my strong suit, but one that caught my attention and that I accidentally approved in Prague, I would not say the exact place anymore, but I remember the cocktail was called the Fuego Sour. It was made with homemade mayonnaise and fresh egg yolks, perfectly balanced by the brightness of fresh lemon juice, which added just the right touch of acidity.
Personally, I love when the drink has just the right acidity and seems that Fuego Sour was the right choice!